Tinos Island: Greek Gastronomy Meets the Aegean Shores
- niko
- 1 day ago
- 13 min read
Updated: 12 minutes ago
In this post, you will get to experience this Greek island through the eyes (and the lenses) of a Greek foodie who has been doing this for quite some time. One can combine great food with a swim on a beautiful beach or a stroll through a picturesque Cycladic village. Not merely because Tinos has both in abundance, but also because the mantra of a Greek island holiday is spending the day lazily by the beach, followed by an evening stroll through the charming whitewashed cobblestone alleys as the sun sinks in the Aegean!
Contents
Why Visit Tinos
The last 10 years or so, there has been a hype building around Tinos among my Greek friends (both in Greece and in the UK). And this is not coming from religious pilgrims who traditionally flock to the island (the most iconic Greek Orthodox church relic of the holy Mary is in Tinos), but rather from young holidaymakers. What was once the island's main tourist product and source of income is now complemented (if not surpassed) by food thrill-seekers and wine connoisseurs. Not only has Tinos become a top gastronomic destination in Greece, but it is also an island that embraces wine culture and has spectacular architecture. For me, perhaps the next Santorini!
I didn’t expect Tinos to deliver all that the way it did. Thanks to a surprisingly good road network (for an island), we were able to explore all the highs and lows without issues. From the sun-drenched beaches of Agios Sostis in the south, to the cobblestone alleys of Pyrgos, and all the way to the wild, wind-blasted north shores of Kolimbithra. And one thing I realised for sure is no wanderer will ever be hungry here. Tinos has chic restaurants with good food and wine nearly everywhere you land!
But what struck me most was how different Tinos felt from its Cycladic siblings. Tinos is famous for its picturesque villages of all sorts: small, big, touristic, non-touristic, artistic, traditional, modern, or conventional, clinging dramatically to cliffs or dozing peacefully in valleys. What is impressive is that there is at least one surprisingly good restaurant in every village we visited. Villages are remarkably clean and well-maintained, and each has its own character. I was hoping you could keep reading to see which ones I recommend. Tineans have a passion for architecture and arts, and one thing that makes Tinos stand out in the Cyclades complex is the architecture and Cycladic art - evident in the iconic dovecotes (structures intended to house pigeons) and the sheer number of sculptors who have drawn, and continue to draw, inspiration from this island.
But it's not just that. Beneath the surface, the winds shift. Quite literally!
One of the downsides is the infamous north-easterly meltemi wind, which hampers the island from late July to early September and can become a loathsome travel companion. And Tinos, due to its geo-location, gets hammered by it. But it's not all doom and gloom. Most of the island’s stunning beaches are southwest-facing, which makes them “protected” (calm waters, no waves). The less-good news? Protected doesn’t necessarily mean sheltered, so expect the occasional flying towel or a sandy exfoliation courtesy of some stray gusty blasts. On the bright side, the wind doubles up as natural air conditioning, keeping Mediterranean summer heat at bay. Just remember to toss a light long sleeve into your bag for those breezy evenings.
Tinos Gastronomy
Having travelled to more than 25 Greek islands (at the time these lines were written) and eaten hundreds of delicious Greek dishes throughout my home country, I dare to say that Tinos gastronomy has thrilled me. As a matter of fact, what stole my heart was the island's magnificence that slowly unfolded as I drifted into every coastline curve, or drove through rugged hilltops to discover stunning villages and wineries (the island already has five!) or tucked into delicious Tinean cheeses and warming dishes of food! Alas, if it wasn't for that rugged terrain and the sun-kissed micro-climate, I would not have savoured the splendour of some rare native Aegean grape wines, nor the famous Tinean cheeses and the exceptional cuisine.
Tinos has quietly built one of the most upscale, ingredient-driven culinary scenes in the Aegean. Local produce - especially the artichokes - anchors a cuisine that’s both refined and deeply rooted. And I tried artichoke in all sorts and forms: fried, pickled, stewed or pureed, no matter what it was, it was super flavoursome (let alone rich in nutrients)! Then comes the Tinean cheese, unique in the Aegean and bold in flavour. I left the island with a mini fridge full of delights but if it's one cheese (or two) to try on the island these are: Volaki cheese, a traditional local cow's milk cheese shaped into small spheres ('volos' in Greek), developing a crumbly texture and peppery kick when aged and usually paired with salads or grated over pasta dishes - imagine something like pecorino but a bit sweeter. Number two, the Kariki blue cheese, one of the very few blue cheeses Greece makes and one of its rarest (hence a bit expensive)! It is made with cow’s milk and aged in a dried local species of calabash (the 'Kariki') and not inoculated with the blue mould, but rather a wild blue mould from the kariki develops naturally during ageing! What I loved about it is that it is not as strong as Roquefort or Stilton, melts in the mouth and has an explosive and spicy flavour! Closer to Gorgonzola, I believe, but quite different and much more full-bodied.
Tinos Wine
When I set foot on Tinos Island, little did I know about the island's wine culture. The famous catchy phrase "what grows together, goes together" was playing in my head. Add that to the spectacular wines, and I instantly felt an urge to surrender not just to my foodie addiction, but my wine passion too. Dating back thousands of years, Tinos boasts an ancient winemaking history since BC and the island's mythical connection to Dionysus, the god of wine. The winemaking history stretches to nowadays, where the modern Tinean winemakers have exploited the island's granitic terrain to cultivate indigenous Cycladic varieties like Assyrtiko and Mavrotragano (which Santorini is also famous for), but also unique, rare varieties like "Potamisi" and "Rozaki". There are already 5 wineries on the island as these lines are written, with another 2 under construction. Tinos has to be the new Santorini! I've carefully chosen and visited 2 of the local wineries, each for a different reason: Volacus📌, I dare to say, is the one that fascinated me the most, with Vaptistis📌 being my second best choice for something more elegant and upscale (and these aesthetically pleasing bottle labels with the TInean geometric patterns). Admittedly, T-Oinos is the oldest and most famous winery on the island, but equally, a fine reminder that taste and temptation rarely come cheap. If your wallet is fat enough, T-Oinos may also be worth the visit.
Ready for Tinos? Look at this handy summer holiday packing list and gear up properly for your Greek getaway.
Tinos Experiences: Where to Swim and Eat
Here are my top 6 Tinos itineraries to combine a swim, a stroll and great food!
Day 1: Agios Romanos and Kampos (West)
Undoubtedly, my favourite refuge for the super windy days was Agios Romanos beach and the one next to it, Apigania. The latter is for those who look for something secluded (non-organised). For the rest of us with the constant hollow leg, there is Agios Romanos with a beach bar and a couple of taverns. Sadly, we arrived late, and on these windy days, the nicely fenced (against sand slapping) beach bar was full, so you either have to make your way early or know someone who knows someone to snag a sunbed for you. Luckily, there are plenty of tamarisk trees for some sort of shade, and the beach is long enough. For a quick midday "meze", there are a couple of tavernas by the beach, yet not the best the island has to offer.
Now, if you are in the area and seeking thrills in eating something special, wait till the afternoon and shoot up to Kampos village. A sleepy little place with not much happening except for being home to one of the most exquisite restaurants on the island: Xoreutra📌(χορεύτρα). Not trying to heighten the expectations, but this restaurant came out of a fairy tale. A secluded residential alley with scattered tables, lazily hanging bougainvillaeas, good taste music at the right volume and generally an aesthetic, peaceful and relaxing vibe like I rarely see in the Aegean islands. Food here is a family business and on a whole other level; anything this land produces (actually their own garden) unleashes its full potential in this talented chef's hands. No dish is rushed, and no waiter is stressed here. So take it easy, you big city anxious white collar worker, enjoy the pacing and don't rush to write a bad review. I'm not getting a paid partnership, nor am I their friend, but this indeed is the authentic Greek island vibe. Greeks value their holidays by slowing down their eating habits and spending more time talking, gossiping and laughing. The visitor must embrace it to blend in.
Day 2: Ysternia and Kardiani (West)
Ysternia sits close to Kardiani, so you could easily tick both villages off in a single trip. I preferred to split them up, as for me, each deserves its own sunset and food indulgence.
Ysternia beach is a quite nice and relaxing spot, often overlooked by the swarms of sunsetters flocking to Ysternia village up the hill for its privileged view of sunset (besides its good looks, of course)! Mostly off-wind, and there is also a beach bar to protect from the occasional blasters. It's also home to famous Thalassaki📌, one of the restaurants locals are raving about across the island, which inevitably meant I had to try. Generally good and creative modern Greek food and great location. Most of the dishes sparked my appetite and raised my eyebrow, with appetisers winning the trophy as the most iconic and tasty, topped by imaginative cheese platters and a beautifully presented taramasalata in the spotlight. A quite fun and unique setting with waves lapping at your feet as you dine and stealing the show - just go on your sandals or flip flops. Pretty pricey, due to its fame, with some mains not delivering as anticipated. After lunch, we lounged at the nearby beach bar until the time to head up to the hilltop village for sundowners at Mayou All Day Bar📌(which also serves brunch) and a lazy stroll through Ysternia’s winding alleys as the sky turns golden and the day fades over the neighbouring islands.
Kardiani is equally impressive. Its houses defy gravity as they cling to the cliffs and with breathtaking cascading terraces - imagine a small version of Santorini, but without the crowds, the selfie sticks and the drones. Perfect for a day trip: it combines a swim either in Kardiani Bay, or nextdoor Kalivia, followed by the freshest, big, fat seafood pasta meal at Ntinos📌restaurant, which literally hangs on a cliff with stunning views to Kardiani cove. Ntinos is a famous gastronomic destination on the island, but it can be a pain to get seated (walk-ins accepted with some waiting, pre-booking is virtually impossible during the peak season, no parking on premises). Later in the afternoon, we chose to drive uphill. For Kardiani is home to one of the best located (cliff edge) restaurants on the island with sunset views, the Perivoli tis Kardianis📌!
Mostly meaty dishes, creative mezze plates, breathtaking views with dramatic sky colours at sunset, and iconic serveware all add to the experience. Pre-booking is recommended to secure seats near the balcony.
Day 3: Laouti & Agios Sostis (South)
The south is best enjoyed on a calm day, but even on windy days, there are some refuges around that area. One other place that we felt a bit more "protected" was Laouti Beach, which happens to sit right next to one of the island’s top five beaches: Agios Sostis.
Don't get me wrong here, Agios Sostis lives up to its fame, but the sandblasting can be relentless on those windy days. Laouti, on the other hand, is essentially the same beach on the same bay, just a few yards over, yet somehow it feels calmer. It's massive, it's sandy, with plenty of parking and a couple of bars where you can relax on a sandbed and have a drink without the harassment of the violent gusts. A few meters away, just between Laouti and another famous beach, Agios Ioannis, is a great foodie spot: Balaouro📌, an honest fish tavern by the beach with superb fresh fish and seafood. Here you go, from traditional tzatziki, tarama and sun-dried grilled octopus on fava, to ouzo-steamed mussels with lemon and herbs, and all the way up to some more imaginative gastronomic options like the "spanakopita" stuffed kalamari. All up to the standard and under a wooden pergola shade, which transforms it into a perfect Mediterranean summer getaway.
Day 4: Agios Fokas and Hora (South)
Tourists tend to stay around Hora and the southernmost edge of the island; mostly for being close to the port, some great beaches and restaurants and of course the holy church of Mary. The locals recommended me nearby Kionia and Agios Fokas beaches for a windy day, which I found great, yet a bit rough; the waters were not as calm as further up West. Between the two, I would choose Agios Fokas, not least because it's home to Marathia📌, one of the restaurants I cherished the most (and I consider a MUST visit). A modern boho setting on the beach avenue with sea views, and one that I consider unique of its kind. Chef Marinos Souranis has mastered the art of dry-ageing fish, creating cold-cut charcuterie boards out of sea bounty, which is pretty impressive to see and equally interesting to try. He also sells his cookbook to spread the word and demonstrate his art. Apart from the cold cuts and a stunning wine list including local masterpieces, there are brilliantly executed vegetarian dishes with the island's famous artichoke and uber-fresh fish plates, cooked to perfection with stunning flavours. If you'd ask me, this is the ultimate fine dining experience by the beach on this island.
Tinos Hora is the main town, where most of the island's tourism flocks for dinner and shopping, and where the youth gather for late-night drinks at the beautiful bars dotted in the alleys around the port area. There are so many options for dinner here, but nothing as special as the legendary Mikro Karavi 📌('small boat' in Greek). There's something about this restaurant that attracted me the most. It must be related to that growing feeling of anticipation as I walked this long, twisting tunnel under graceless urban town buildings, or the awe of the dreamy, lush garden courtyard unfolding before my eyes at the end of the tunnel. The aesthetics of the dining area, and the adjacent restored stone hammam (formerly a Turkish bath), now used for cheese and wine tasting (ask for bookings), together with the welcoming personnel, take it to a whole new level. This restaurant embodies a delightful sensation of the greatest joy of life: Mediterranean al fresco dining in a secret courtyard.
Its gastronomic theme revolves around creativity and imagination with Tinean products like stunning cheeses, sun-dried tomatoes, the famous Tinean artichoke, and fresh seafood bounty, all paired with contemporary Cycladic flair and precision-cooked to perfection. Let me not forget the exceptional wine menu with a variety of selections from local wineries, plus the uplifting vibe of the outdoor seating area.
I need to say no more, and you need to pin this restaurant in your 'Want to Go' list. If you have only one shot at Tinos Hora for dinner, this is undoubtedly it.
Day 5: Pyrgos, Panormos and the North
A bit of a long shot if you live south (i.e. around Tinos Hora region), yet a journey totally worth the effort, where you can combine a few things in one day trip. For not just the Panormos sleepy promenade with the vibrant seafood taverns, but also for a swim in the surrounding beaches. Pyrgos is majestic, not only because of its artistic soul and museums, or its food scene (with Athmar📌 and Sima📌 highly recommended), or even its boho, independent shops and quirky little local brands - but also for its location. Snugged between hilltops, Pyrgos is naturally shielded from the wind, making it the perfect refuge to spend a lazy afternoon without the constant wind buzz in your ears and the effort of blinking out sand granules from your eyes. After a visit to the museums and a slow, blissful wander through its Instagrammable flowery alleys, we ended up grabbing a marble top table at the main square for coffee and sweets at the legendary Kentrikon📌 (a.k.a. Centrál). This square may be one of the most beautiful in the Aegean, and this vintage café has remained gloriously untouched for decades (in all the best ways). It’s where I had the best homemade Portokalopita and Melahrino (walnut cake, usually with a generous dollop of ice cream) on the whole island.
For a swim, there's Agia Thalassa (which is a bit on the wild side) and the zen-vibed Rohari with crystal-clear waters, fine white sand and a boho beach bar to unwind. That said, with Rohari being hit by the meltemi, you only have the option of Agia Thalassa and some spare time to head back to Panormos for lunch or dinner. There are plenty of fish taverns, but there were two that stood out for me for their more elegant and modern twist of Greek seafood: Tama📌 and Maru📌. I had only one shot, so I randomly (eeny, meeny, miny, moe) went for Tama. I grew a particular affection for this restaurant as the owner (Miltos) was uber friendly and chatty, but also was the first place I tried a divine salad with the local cheese variety 'Kariki' and melon, prosciutto and lettuce that blew my mind. I am not able to name my favourite dish, but the octopus on fava puree and the hearty meatballs with cooling yoghurt and tomato sauce definitely stood out.
Day 6: Volax - Kolimpithra - Komi
The mountainous village of Volax is picturesque and beautifully unearthly, reachable by a drive that feels straight out of mythology. Our way up found us swinging through enormous granite boulders—volakes in Greek—that legend says are the scattered debris from a Titan clash, while others say they are fallen meteorites. One thing is for sure: Volax takes its name from these boulders and is perfect for a quick stop for a stroll and a cup of coffee before heading for a swim at Kolimpithra beach. Heading into the village from the car park, I felt reunited with the Cycladic spirit. My nostrils immediately picked up this dense, indefinable, cycladic aroma of wet stone and herbs mixed with saltiness from the sea. What anchored me firmly in reality was a faint but honest reminder that cows, too, call the surrounding hills home. Volax is home to a few independent shops with traditional woven kitchenware and marble art, but also a place to stock up on herbal teas and dried herbs for your Greek recipes, as well as Greek thyme honey (which, for me, is the best in the world - no exaggeration). Locals proudly boast Tinean honey is the finest in the Aegean; I have no reason to argue, yet it comes at a high price, but undeniably good quality indeed.
Kolimpithra has a bohemian vibe, with a tavern and a bar, but if you are a gastro-nomad-palate-pilgrim like me, you shall head to Komi village on the way back from your swim to eat traditional Greek mezze at Svoura📌. Mark my words, this place will vividly register in your memories as one of the most beautiful Aegean picturesque central squares with life revolving around a giant maple tree: the embodiment of Cycladic dining.
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