Souvlaki Chronicles: The Finest Wrap in Athens City Centre
- niko
- May 2
- 7 min read
Updated: 6 days ago
Souvlaki Basics
Let's start with the basics: Souvlaki, Kalamaki or Gyros (yeeros)?
Greeks have determined that the answer largely depends on your location in Greece, whether it's the north, midlands, or south. There has been a long-standing culinary debate between Thessalonikians (myself included) and the Athenians regarding the definition of Souvlaki, ever since I can remember myself eating souvlaki. In Thessaloniki (and the North) Souvlaki is the skewered meat. However, for the sake of this post, I will concentrate on the Athenian interpretation, whereby "Souvlaki" refers to the entire pita wrap experience, whether filled with skewered meat (called kalamaki in the South), gyro or kebabs. At least, to my understanding so far...
Regardless of what we choose to call it, this is about a relationship of love and prejudice. But in all seriousness, souvlaki brings the nation together, despite the North vs South banter that sounds like a never-ending soap opera episode. This beloved street food offers comfort (along with fat and calories) in every bite and evokes memories of every Greek's childhood; there isn't a single Greek person I know who didn't grow up with a local outlet and a favourite spot to frequent. It's practically in our DNA, right next to the love for olive oil and the ability to argue passionately about... nothing. That said, it's worth mentioning that Greek temperament often leads to heated debates among friends about who makes the best souvlaki in town. Trust me, I've been involved in such arguments dozens of times in the past, and let me tell you, they can get more intense than a World Cup final!
Athenian vs Thessalonikian Souvlaki
Growing up in the second biggest Greek city, Thessaloniki, I was accustomed to a large pita wrap (barely able to push the two ends meet and hold it in one hand) filled with deliciously marinated spiced chunks of high-quality pork (or chicken), usually topped with fries and salad. When I lived in Athens, I discovered a different style: an admittedly smaller wrap (where the ends meet and can be held), yet still full of flavour, sometimes with spicy sauces and often without fries, focusing on the meaty flavours. In the capital, it is typically served with a dollop of tzatziki (or yoghurt sauce), which some find delightful and others... a dealbreaker.
Arguably, in Thessaloniki, the portions are larger, the meat is delicious and juicy, and the satisfaction level is generally in the high. (I'm planning another post for Thessaloniki souvlaki soon). But I do not judge a book by its cover. As a foodie, I am greatly attracted to the variety of Athenian souvlaki wraps. With all the qualities I mentioned and some variations like special tomato sauces and chilli spice mixes that -funnily enough- might not appeal to the discerning palates of Thessalonikians, the capital is certainly a destination for savouring souvlaki with unique character and flavour. And don't forget, always order two.
How do I research for the best souvlaki
When I visit a small Greek city or island with limited options and scarce travel guides, I usually rely on my instincts (and online reviews, which are not heated) and try all available choices to decide where to eat during my stay. However, in a mega-city like Athens, it's impossible to eat all the best the city has to offer in a single trip. I took a different approach: I did extensive research, taking local friends' recommendations, reading other bloggers' posts and reviews for souvlaki spots ranking high in social media reviews (over 4.5 stars) around the historic centre, plus I re-visited some personal favourites from my past life in Athens some 20 years ago. I strongly believe that someone with a Greek-trained palate and extensive experience in enjoying this sinful Greek street food (that's me) would be best suited to describe the experience of eating at the top souvlaki spots in central Athens!
Here's my list, starting from a personal favourite:
Meat the Greek
What to order: Pitopsomo
This is a contemporary establishment with ample seating and a central Athenian atmosphere. The extremely courteous and friendly owner visits tables to assist with the menu and proudly boasts about their homemade meatballs, custom-made aubergine/red pepper dip, and their "pitopsomo" pita bread (a blend of bread roll and pita). And with good reason. I tried the meatball pita wrap with their homemade tomato sauce in the delicious pita bread which was exquisite! The aubergine-pepper dip is also not to be missed, and their salads are imaginative. Truly, this is a standout and one of the best souvlaki experiences I've had in Athens.
Lefteris o Politis
What to order: Beef Kebabs
Lefteris from "City" (Constantinople) has been a family business for almost 70 years! As part of the significant Greek migration from Istanbul following the fall of the Ottoman Empire, the family brought kebab-making techniques to Athens from the Eastern Byzantine and Ottoman periods, creating a uniquely flavourful beef kebab with warm, earthy spices. The pita is out of this world, soft and silky and balanced in oil and salt. Simplicity is key here: there’s no yoghurt sauce, tzatziki, or fries in this wrap. It’s just the kebab, fresh tomatoes, and their custom-made red chilli spice mix with a delightfully spicy burn, not the kind you cannot bear. Don't ask for a gyro or skewered souvlaki here. They focus on one thing, the beef kebab, and they have been doing it exceptionally well for years. It tastes just as good as I remember from when I first tried it nearly 20 years ago. The old establishment is near Omonoia square, but there's a second one in Monastiraki/Ermou area.
Kostas (Syntagma)
What to order: Pork Souvlaki
A family-run business that's been handed down through generations, Kostas is a true Athenian institution since 1950. Tucked right in the heart of the city at Syntagma Square, it keeps things simple and old-school, which means, naturally, it gets very busy come lunchtime (be prepared for queues) and sells off and closes at 3pm every day. There are a handful of seats inside, but no outdoor seating and not much charm on the surrounding pavement, so it’s very much a takeaway kind of place.
Inside, the walls proudly tell their story. Lined with magazine articles, testimonials, and shoutouts from famous travellers who’ve made the pilgrimage and left their blessings. They are making a real hype, and it all clicks the moment you take your first bite.
For me, the pork souvlaki skewer was the undisputed winner. The pieces might’ve been smaller than expected, but they are lean pork loin and packed an incredible punch. Juicy, flavourful, and elevated by a subtly spicy paprika-yoghurt sauce and that beautifully fragrant parsley-onion salad; a combo that completely blew my mind.
I wish I could say the same for the kebab wrap, but I suspect I was still under the spell of that pork skewer I tried first. In hindsight, I’d say: Kostas nails the souvlaki, but if you're after kebabs, my heart (and taste buds) still belong to Lefteris. Sorry Kostas.
Kosta (Agias Irinis sq)
What to order: Souvlaki/Kebap with secret spiced sauce
Don’t mix this up with Kostas at Syntagma. This is Kosta, a legendary spot tucked into a tiny, cute little square in the city's heart, Agias Irinis Square (outdoor seating on the square is a plus). One of the oldest family-run street food souvlaki joints in Athens, Kosta is one of central Athens' well-kept secrets.
Walking into Kosta feels like stepping into a time capsule. The décor hasn’t changed in decades, and neither have the recipes. It’s like being transported straight into post-war Athens, with every corner echoing stories of a film noir era. And the food just talks to your soul!
Expect to queue, especially during peak hours, but it’s time well spent. The meat is grilled over charcoal, tender and juicy, wrapped in a soft, aromatic pita that seems to have its own personality. And then there’s the sauce. This is why you're here. Spicy, fragrant, and utterly comforting, it's a secret family recipe and you’ll wish they sold it by the bottle (or bucket).
Whether you go for the skewered meat or the kebab, you’re in for something special. Every bite is a little piece of culinary history and a flavoursome memory from Athens to take back home. I rarely hand out five stars, but this place stole my heart. The food, the soul, the setting, it all just plays out differently.
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Athens Souvlaki Map
Here's a map with all restaurants, cafes, bakeries and other shops mentioned in this post, which may come in handy for your Athenian city break. To save the map, tap that little ⭐ at the top of the map frame, and it will be saved in your Google account. The map will automatically appear on your Google Maps app under "You" and then scroll down the bottom in "Maps".
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