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Where I ate the Best Moroccan Food in Marrakesh Medina

  • Writer: niko
    niko
  • 6 days ago
  • 8 min read

Updated: 49 minutes ago

I travelled to Marrakesh for the second time, and this time, I went with a plan. Having done my homework beforehand, I arrived with a curated list of restaurants, all carefully chosen to sample the best tagines and other Moroccan delicacies, like the sweet-and-savoury comfort dish of pastilla. With a better sense of the city and its flavours, this trip was all about eating with purpose (and perhaps a bit more confidence) while wandering through the souks to capture culture and moments with my camera.

Before I dive into the more tantalising details and slurpy descriptions of dishes and restaurants, let me quickly introduce the two most iconic dishes in Moroccan cuisine that I'm focusing on this culinary adventure:


Tagine (or Tajine)

First up is the legendary tagine: a dish so quintessential to Moroccan cuisine it shares its name with the conical clay pot it’s cooked in. This slow-cooked stew has its roots in Berber culture and is a staple of Moroccan eating habits, eaten frantically from the Atlas Mountains to coastal towns. Tagines are all about patience and layering flavours: as much as I love seafood, it is the chicken tagine that steals my heart when it comes to tagines. Tender marinated chicken, gently braised with olive oil and spices like cumin, ginger, saffron, or cinnamon, and often paired with ingredients like preserved lemon, green olives, or sweet dried fruits like apricots and prunes. The result is an aromatic, melt-in-your-mouth dish that brings utter warmth and comfort. It's served bubbling hot directly from the pot, and bread is mandatory here. This isn’t the time for forks and restraint. Just mop it up. Praise the chef and worship the sauce.


Pastilla

Pastilla (or bastilla) is a dish with a certain magical allure, cherished for the way it embodies Morocco’s rich blend of Arab, Andalusian, and French culinary influences. Traditionally made with pigeon or chicken, its filling is a sumptuous mix of spiced cooked meat, ground almonds, and fresh herbs, all wrapped in delicate warqa pastry (similar to Greek filo), and finished with a gentle dusting of cinnamon and icing sugar. It serves as a starter but is also a perfect standalone snack, which makes it great for breakfast. In Greece I know we would call it "Bougatsa". It’s a perfect harmony of sweet and savoury in a single bite, which somehow works like a charm. Just like Bougatsa in Greece. Once reserved for festive occasions and family celebrations, pastilla remains a showstopper, often catching even seasoned food travellers pleasantly off guard with its bold, unexpected balance of flavours.




Where to Eat Good Food in Marrakesh

Most certainly not in Jemaa el-Fnaa!

While the famous central square is absolutely worth a visit for the atmosphere, energy, and watching the sheer spectacle, it’s undoubtedly not where you’ll quench your thirst for the best of Moroccan cuisine in Marrakech. For one, the experience can be overwhelming—hundreds of vendors calling out, trying to pull you into their stalls, some of them causing you uneasiness (yet not intimidation). And while the square offers the ultimate cheap street food adventure (for the brave and curious), the quality of food is generally mediocre at best. Plus, don't forget this is Africa, where foodborne illnesses and contaminated water pose a significant public health concern and can potentially ruin one's precious holiday.

I reckon if you're after something truly flavourful, authentic, and thoughtfully prepared, you'd be better off venturing beyond the neon-lit chaotic scenery of Jemaa el Fnaa and into the well-hidden secrets of the souks!

Swarms of hungry locals flock at Jemaa el-Fnaa at dusk
Swarms of hungry locals and tourists flock to Jemaa el-Fnaa

That said, Jemaa El-Fnaa is historic and undoubtedly worth hanging around: once a caravan stopover for trading, nowadays a buzzy square with merchants selling all sorts of souvenirs and food. Perfect to seek refuge for your aching feet, sipping sundowners at one of the surrounding rooftop bars, and watching the life passing by as the sun sets. The views are surreal, almost reminiscent of a film noir scene from the black and white era. And that's exactly what I thought when I stumbled on this century-old B&W photo at El Badi palace's art gallery (which seems to have been taken from a similar angle - most likely not a rooftop bar):

Jemaa El-Fnaa at 1920
Jemaa El-Fnaa 1920 - El Badi palace photo gallery

During my research and reading countless blogs and articles about the "top 10 restaurants" and similar topics, I found myself overwhelmed and confused. Therefore, I narrowed it down to 4+1 places, based on my instinct and experience eating around these countries, keeping the list concise and making my visits feasible and efficient for my few-day holiday planned.

These are the places that captivated my Moroccan 1000+1 Arabian feast fantasies and helped me uncover the essence of good Moroccan food!


01. 

Le Jardin

Highlights: Brunch in a lush courtyard: Shakshuka, Pastilla, Healthy Salads, Tagines, family friendly, no alcohol

This timeless classic is a must-visit whenever I'm in Marrakesh. Nestled in the courtyard of a stunning 1960s mansion surrounded by lush greenery, the food quality has remained consistent over the last decade I've been visiting. It's best enjoyed during the day, and since I always opt to stay on that side of the medina, Le Jardin is my top choice for brunch or lunch. This visit, I tried the same dishes I had years ago. Much to my relief, the shakshuka was as I remembered it, outstanding; the pastillas were exquisite, and this time I also sampled the tagines, which surpassed my expectations. It's a reliable choice in Marrakesh, and is family-friendly (prams welcomed) with plenty of space.




02. 

Dar Cherifa

Highlights: Romantic dinner, old Riad atmosphere, traditional cuisine, no alcohol

Squeezed between narrow cobbled streets and lost in the twisting maze of the souk, this place is seriously hard to find. No Joke. I needed to ask a few locals as Google Maps let us down, and was getting dark. All things considered, this is one iconic restaurant, perhaps the most atmospheric in Marrakesh, that every restaurant lover and thrill seeker should visit. The riad that hosts the restaurant is one of the oldest in Marrakech (dating back to the Saadian dynasty, late 16th century), with a deep central patio featuring carved cedar wood panels and stuccoes with Koranic inscriptions. Unquestionably dreamy and mesmerising ambience!


The food is decent, but not the sole reason to visit, in my opinion. Here you will find Moroccan classics like couscous with vegetables, lamb tagines and a surprisingly perfect pastilla, all freshly cooked with -what tasted like- quality ingredients. However, as I said, the dishes remain strictly traditional, without any variations or diversions. For some, this offers the ultimate comfort, while for others, it might just be another Moroccan eatery. To me, it was a mix of all these elements: comforting Moroccan classics in a stunning setting, yet I wouldn't call it a culinary experience that blew my (rather) demanding palate.

But again, that might be just me...



03. 

Le Slimana

Highlights: Rooftop dining with sunset views, cocktails (alcohol available), modern deco

I’ll admit it—I’m a sucker for a rooftop with a view, especially when it comes with good lighting, music and cocktails, and the kind of atmosphere that makes you want to stay long after dessert. Le Slimana delivers all that, and more.


Tucked just a block away from Madrasa Ben Youssef (which you will visit because it is a must), Le Slimana is an old Riad converted to a multi-level bar and restaurant with a more modern kind of film noir finish. As I glided up the stairs through its elegant, posh vintage interiors, past lush palms and low lighting, I reached our table: right at the edge of a rooftop terrace that feels plucked from a movie set. The views? Unreal. The medina maze unfurls beneath you, and when the sun starts to dip behind the minarets, it’s all dramatic skies, a breeze you didn’t know you were desperate for, and a picture-perfect golden hour (for some Instagrammable-worthy silhouette photography).


We came for dinner, ended up staying for cocktails. The drinks were spot on—cleverly mixed and beautifully presented, with a few Moroccan twists. The food leaned more toward Mediterranean fusion than traditional, with some playful takes on local classics and a few crowd-pleasing international dishes for good measure. The Moroccan tapas tray is a must try, and some of the appetisers like the smoked salmon and bulgur falafels rival many of London's fine dining establishments, I can think of. Here I tried dishes that were new to me, such as aubergine hummus with manchego cheese and marinated red peppers and smoky aubergine with a dreamy Dukkah that would make an Egyptian chef's eyes roll. As for the tagines: absolutely outstanding. These are not your average Moroccan grandma-style tagines—expect a mix of modern Moroccan favourites with global finesse that pair perfectly, like the melt-in-the-mouth lamb leg slow-cooked with caramelised tomatoes and onions, cinnamon, and orange blossom honey and the best fish tagine I had in Marrakesh, infused with chermoula spices and olives. Don't miss that one.




04. 

La Table de La Sultana

Highlights: Moroccan fine dining, classy decor, seafood and vegetarian options, alcohol available, pasta for kids

I kept the best for the end!

This is Moroccan fine dining at its best. Right next to Saadian tombs and very close to El Badi Palace, is a restaurant where the French chic meets Berber tradition, Moroccan spices and ethically-sourced meat & fish from a network of small local producers (who clearly know what they're doing). This is also where I had the most epic meal of this visit!


Dining at La Table de La Sultana is as much of a meal as an experience—it starts the moment you step onto the rooftop and catch your breath at the sight of the adjacent Saadian rooftops and the Moulay Yazid minaret standing still and proud through the centuries over the south part of the medina (and the restaurant's rooftop). But what struck me most about this place was the walk across the swanky La Sultana hotel. A route you must take to get seated through cascading courtyards with lush gardens and serene pools, on Moorish tiles and past Arabic art nouveau and splashy furnished lobbies. I envied anyone who was staying at the hotel at that very moment.


Arriving at the terrace where we would be seated, I was awed. I tend to be wax lyrical with places like that and about how good the food was, but I'll be honest: food and atmosphere are 10/10 here. Tables scattered amongst a rooftop garden inspired by a fairytale, with comfortable and spacious seating, while the view... just outstanding. And then comes the menu: Moroccan cuisine reimagined with refinement and detail, without losing its soul. Yes, you will find tagines, but here they come with thoughtful twists, masterful technique and French precision. They make a sort of seafood pastilla I didn't see anywhere else (hence worth trying), one filled with spiced, tasty seafood and vermicelli noodles. The citrusy fish tagine with raisins was ridiculously tasty and moreish, and if you’re the sharing type (or just pretending to be), there’s a massive seafood platter featuring lobster, calamari, and fish—a dream for the bon vivants and anyone who travels with stretchy trousers.

The service is Michelin-starred worthy, and everyone speaks perfect English! Fantabulous!





05. 

Soul Food + Different Concept Store

Highlights: Kitchenware and clothing store, cafe, brunch with rooftop


This spot might not be strictly relevant to the article, but trust me—any true foodie and design lover will appreciate it for a thing or two. First, the handmade ceramics: plates, pots, mugs, and glassware with a unique Moroccan-Arabesque aesthetic, crafted by independent local artists. The quality is exquisite, nothing like the cheap junk sold in the souks (luckily, I had some space left in my suitcase). Add to that a selection of bold jewellery and modern, colourful ‘Arabian Nights’ fashion pieces for the style-savvy, and you’ve got yourself a shopping experience that feels more like therapy than tourism.


At the same complex, there's an attached café (called "Soul Food") with a rooftop that lures you in with a brunch menu that sounds slurp-worthy. I did make a mental note to return next time… the clock was ticking, and my next food stop was already locked in.


A vibrant, thoughtfully designed haven just moments away from Le Jardin, which will captivate your imagination, and possibly your pocket, but one worth every penny as there's nothing like it in Marrakesh.


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