Paella Pilgrim: Where I Ate Great Authentic Paella in Valencia
- niko
- May 30
- 10 min read
If there’s one dish that instantly pops my mind when I think of Spain—my favourite (after Greece!) and perhaps the most exotic country in Europe for travel—it’s paella! There’s something irresistibly attractive about it. Though humble in origin, once cooked by peasants with just a handful of ingredients, paella is a dish that bursts with flavour, texture, and sunshine.
Travelling to Valencia, the birthplace of paella, had long been on my bucket list (and still is because I’m certainly going back). I came armed with a shortlist of restaurants, thanks to local tips, food blogs, and glowing reviews.
Now, while I consumed my fair share of paellas across a respectable number of restaurants, only a select few truly ticked all the boxes and lived up to the hype. Most of the paellas I tried in Valencia’s historic city centre (Ciutat Vella) and central food markets sadly missed the mark: too dense, too creamy (borderline risotto), lacking depth, or simply underseasoned.
But fear not, fellow Mediterranean seafood lovers! Valencia is not short on fresh mariscos, and even in the most touristy corners of the old town, at least the seafood on your plate will likely make you smile. And now, to make your quest easier, I’ve listed below the places where I ate the best, most authentic paella in town.
What makes a great paella
After some online research, book reading (I recommend this Paella cookbook) and numerous chats over meals with my Spanish friends in London, I ended up with the following 5 things to remember about a great paella:
The Rice. Great paella isn’t overloaded with seafood or meat. The rice is the show's star and the table's centrepiece. It should be short-grain (like Bomba or Calasparra), perfectly cooked (tender but not mushy) and infused with the rich flavours of the broth, saffron, and usually a sofrito (a base of tomato, garlic, and oil). When you eat it, each grain should be separate, not clumped, and cooked to perfection (not mushy, not crispy). Read more at How to Eat paella wiki
The "Socarrat". The golden crust that forms on the bottom of the pan is called socarrat, and it’s a hallmark of expertly made paella. It adds a toasty, umami-rich flavour and a slight crunch on the tooth. Worry not, as this is not burned bottom; it is just a delicately caramelised layer that hides the ultimate paella flavour (think a crust on a crème brûlée).
The Pan. Authentic paella is always cooked in a wide, shallow pan (paellera) to allow even cooking and proper rice texture. If it’s too deep or served in a regular pot, it’s not traditional and probably nowhere near the real experience.
The stirring (not). Unlike risotto, paella is not stirred once the broth goes in. Stirring creates a creamy texture, but paella should be drier with a crisp base. If it looks like wet rice or mixed seafood stew, it’s not true paella. And believe me, there's a lot of that served even in the capital of paella!
Cooking time. Good things need time, and authentic paella is made to order and usually takes around 30 to 45 minutes. You won't get the authentic experience and taste if you try paella in places that serve it already cooked to take away.
Where can you eat the best paella in Valencia?
The best paella in Valencia is most certainly not in the Ciutat Vella restaurants, where most tourists stay (including myself). I visited and ate in some of the highest-scoring restaurants in the historic city centre (scoring over 4.5 stars in Google and Tripadvisor), only to find out that reviews are mostly coming from excited and exhausted (from sightseeing or heat) tourists, not locals or foodie travellers seeking thrill in their palates. Having said that, just to mention that I couldn't just try all restaurants in a matter of a few days, and equally, I wasn't recommended any restaurant in the centre by my local acquaintances.
Generally, locals rave that the best paellas are around the L'Albufera region and specifically at El Palmar, which is a bit off the city, so not quite convenient for the couple of day city break visitor, but certainly one place to aim for if you are a gourmand. But you will also find great paella in the Valencian beachside, around Malvarossa and Cabanyal.
Keep reading to see in which restaurants I ate the best paella in Valencia...
Will kids eat Paella Valenciana?
Most likely yes. Spanish kids grow up with the scent and taste of saffron, it’s practically in their DNA. Inevitably, their palates are trained from an early age. For other little ones, though, the flavour can be a bit odd at first. That said, most kids I’ve seen (including our own) are happy to tuck into at least the rice; snails, not so much. Occasionally, some parental trickery may be required: think a sprinkle of parmesan or a squeeze of ketchup to blasphemously mask the more complex notes. Still, paella tends to be one of the more kid-friendly dishes on the Mediterranean menu, so I wouldn't worry too much.
01
Paella at Casa Carmela (Valencia)
What to Eat: Paella (full stop).
I only had to choose one restaurant to eat at that day, and I balanced between two seaside legends, Casa Carmela and La Pepica. All my recommendations were pointing to the former (as was my gut feeling). Not just because Casa Carmela scores higher in review sites and is a legendary restaurant running for generations since the 1920s, but also because it cooks paella the traditional way, on an open wood fire and has reached the ultimate level of mastery in doing so!
As I walked into this magnificent venue with the rustic decor in the old dining room, I took in the aroma of freshly cooked seafood paella hanging in the air, mixed with the smokiness of the burning orange wood, which gives this paella its distinctive greatness! Following the age-old tradition, the paella is served in the middle of the table with wooden spoons that hungry clients use to scrape the bottom (the "socarrat"), which hides smoky umami flavour (though a bit saltier than I expected) and rich sticky texture - godsent! The use of fresh ingredients and good quality rice is evident not just from the paella, but from the various little appetisers (changing over the seasons) that are worth trying while you wait for your paella to be cooked.
02
La Sastreria (Valencia)
What to eat: Seafood appetisers/tapas, fresh fish dishes and paella
We ended up in the El Cabanyal neighbourhood (near the Valencian Marina) not just to stroll between the tiled, colourful houses but also to eat at Casa Montaña, which I watched on a TV show a few years ago. Unfortunately, walk-ins are hard to accommodate at Casa Montaña (you need at least a 2-3 day booking in advance), so we walked down the street, stumbling upon La Sasteria (the tailor shop—there used to be one).
Since the weather was warm when we visited in April, we opted for outdoor seating. The surroundings weren’t particularly charming (just a typical view of cement buildings), but there was an undeniable Cabanyal urban neighbourhood vibe that made it enjoyable. When I stepped inside to ask for the menu, I was instantly struck by the spotless interior, where ceramics pay tribute to the character of the neighbourhood that hosts it, and bold colours give the place a gourmand character. When the scent crept up my nostrils, I immediately realised I'm up for a gastronomic experience: cooked fish mingling with saffron and paprika, jolting my senses awake, and sending my hunger into overdrive. Certainly, the paella is on the cards at La Sasteria (only served for lunch) and, boy, looks proper: a thin layer of pearly lustre rice grain, seriously appetising socarrat, and beautiful colour. But when you're this close to the Mediterranean, my favourite sea on earth, I can't pass up the chance to try some fresh fish. Undoubtedly, the paella ticked the boxes, but the Cadiz style sea bream was the real deal here: tender, subtly aromatic, paired with a divine saffron and mint-infused tartar sauce. Pure heaven on a plate!
Generally worth trying the appetisers and tapas here as at La Sasteria, they do things slightly differently, with lots of imagination and a little bit more love. Certainly not the average Spanish seafood restaurant!
03
Bon Aire (El Palmar)
What to Eat: Paella Valenciana, seafood paella, crab paella (seasonal)
El Palmar is a mere 20-minute drive from Valencia’s city centre, nestled in the heart of the L'Albufera salt lake. Surrounded by endless fertile rice paddies and rich marine life, it’s no wonder this humble village became the birthplace of this legendary dish. Proudly sitting at the epicentre of paella culture, El Palmar boasts an impressive number of arrocerías (paella restaurants), each one more tempting than the last.
Though almost every restaurant here has glowing reviews, I had shortlisted just a few:
Arroceria Maribel, for its beautiful plating and dish presentation,
Bon Aire, after seeing it featured by local food bloggers with its scenic views over to the rice fields and a modern and traditional variety of paellas, and
Arroceria El Rek, thanks to its unbeatable location right by the lake and bonus points for the children’s playground in the courtyard (parents, take note!)
Arrocería El Rek
Sadly, we arrived later than planned and only Bon Aire could accommodate us; though it was already on my list, so no complaints there! If anything, I walked away with two more reasons to return to El Palmar 😉
Visiting in spring means catching the village in its off-season charm: the rice fields aren’t yet green, and Bon Aire’s paella menu is a little more limited (much to my dismay, the crab cangrejo paella was out of season). Still, spring has its perks: it’s the peak time for local purple garlic, a prized variety known for its bold aroma and flavour, which elevates the paella to another level. The starters were also full of local character: eel dishes, beloved in the L'Albufera region, and creations starring my personal favourite, artichoke.
In all honesty, the most flavourful and perfectly balanced paella I had in the entire Valencia region was right there, at Bon Aire.
Other Foodie Spots in Valencia
04
Submarino, Valencia
Submarino isn't the restaurant I would recommend for outstanding food or innovative cuisine. Located within the huge site of the Oceanogràfic València, it's rather a place I visited for the experience. That of dining surrounded by enormous aquariums and enjoying a leisurely meal with a captivating array of marine life swirling infinitely around you. And what an experience it was! Although it felt like we were heading straight into a tourist trap, little did I know of how pleasantly surprised we would be by the level of the food. It was here that I realised Spaniards have great respect for their cuisine, and when it comes to fine dining, they muster it. The menu featured seafood and meat prepared in ways that piqued my curiosity, but there was also paella and a special kids' menu! The prices were quite reasonable (though on the higher side), considering this is a unique experience you won't find in many places around the world.
05
Horchateria Santa Catalina, Valencia
What to order: Churros con chocolate, Horchata
Bloggers, travel authors and travel agents are raving about the local superfood nourishing drink that Valencians frantically consume, the Horchata. It is a sweet, cold beverage made from "tiger nuts" (chufas). And they all talk about this legendary shop that makes the finest Horchata in Valencia: Santa Catalina.
But let me tell you 3 personal experiences about it:
1- None of my Spaniard friends recommended it as a must-thing to do.
2- Its taste was not what I expected (after reading all these raving reviews and articles) - it reminded me of a dry cough syrup my mum forced me to drink when I was sick.
3- Horchateria Santa Catalina is full of tourists.
That said, it is perhaps worth visiting because you (unlike me) may as well enjoy Horchata more than I in this legendary, untouched by time setting. In spite my disappointment with horchata, I had no intention of losing hope or giving up, so I also invested in churros. One thing I can guarantee is that eventually you will have to visit Santa Catalina, because their churros with the local, pure, thick chocolate dip are to die for! But equally, think that drinking Horchata at Santa Catalina is like the holy communion of the foodie traveller: you don't necessarily like the taste, but you have to take it. Which means even if its taste is not your cup of tea, you will have to give it a go just for the sake of it all.
06
Gelateria La Romana
What to try: Chocolate pistachio, hazelnut, zabaione, French gelato toast
With a banging 4.7 stars in Google (at the day I visited), that was a no-brainer gelato pit-stop during our city centre tour. Tradition meets indulgence at Gelateria La Romana; here every scoop is crafted with passion and authentic Italian flair, and made fresh on premises every day since 1947. And boy, their gelato is one of the best I've ever had (no joke). Also worth trying some very creative recipes like the "toast gelato" which is your choice of gelato dripping between two French toasties!!!
Valencia Foodie's Map
Here's a map with all restaurants, cafes and other spots mentioned in this post, which may come in handy for your Valencian city break. To save the map, tap that little ⭐ at the top of the map frame, and it will be saved in your Google account. The map will automatically appear on your Google Maps app under "You" and then scroll down the bottom in "Maps".
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